Then, while wintering in Arizona, we saw a small Reverse-Osmosis (RO) system in a hardware store. Since it looked better than what we were currently using, we decided that for less than $200.00, about 35 minutes of time, and by using a few common tools we had with us, we could install an RO unit that provides water far superior to that from our current single-filter kit. Since installing our RO system, our water has the same great taste regardless of our location.
RO systems typically remove 90% to 96% of total dissolved solids, organics and bacteria. An RO system not only provides you with safe drinking water while hooked up to city water, but also when using water out of your freshwater holding tank. It’s anyone’s guess what kind of things are lurking in there.
If you currently use a single-filter kit, the first step is to un-install it. Prior to installing the RO system, identify all parts packed in the box and thoroughly read the installation manual. Most instructions contain tips that if overlooked, can lead to water leaks.
Tools Required - Our installation required a drill with a ¼” drill bit, a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a ½” open-end wrench, a 10” crescent wrench along with either a 6” or 8” crescent wrench. If you need to remove part of a shelf to get the necessary height, you may also need a small handsaw or saber saw. If you did not have a filtered-water faucet before, you also will need a hole-saw capable of drilling a ½” hole. We are now ready to start the installation.
Installing The Filter Assembly - If you need to remove part of a shelf, remove it now. Locate where you want the RO filter assembly positioned. It can either set upright on the bottom shelf of the cabinet or mounted on the side of the wall. If you decide to mount it on the wall, locate the mounting holes on the filter bracket, place the filter assembly against the wall and mark the location for the screws. Install the screws and hang the filter assembly. Otherwise, set it upright on the bottom shelf.
Installing The Cold-Water Feed Line - Next, turn off the main water supply coming into your RV. From under the sink, unscrew the cold-water faucet shank where it screws onto the cold-water feed line.
Locate the brass slip-joint adapter and RO water shutoff valve. Wrap two wraps of Teflon tape around the shutoff valve threads and screw it onto the brass adapter. Tighten the shut-off valve to the brass adapter using two crescent wrenches.
Wrap the cold-water faucet shank threads with two wraps of Teflon tape. Make sure to put the small rubber washer inside the brass adapter before screwing it onto the shank - otherwise you will have a water drip. This step was not in our installation instructions and I had to ours apart again and install the washer. Try to position the RO shut-off valve so you can easily attach the line coming from the filter assembly. Screw the brass adapter onto the faucet shank. Tighten with the two crescent wrenches.
Screw the cold-water feed line plastic nut onto the end of the brass adapter opposite the shank and tighten by hand. Locate the water feed line coming from the filter assembly – ours is red in color and the only one not labeled. Slide the metal compression nut and plastic sleeve over the line, screw the nut onto the RO shut-off valve threads and gently tighten with the ½” open end wrench.
Installing The Drain Line - Next, drill a ¼” hole through one side of the vertical section or in the top of the horizontal section of PVC drain pipe coming down from the sink. Install the pre-cut cushioning material onto the inside of the saddle clamp half with the hole in it.
Locate the drain hose coming from the filter assembly and push it through the hole in the saddle clamp half just far enough so the line will be inside the PVC pipe when installed. Our hose is black and labeled “TO DRAIN”. Push the drain line into the ¼” hole in the PVC drain pipe.
Place the other half of the saddle clamp opposite the first half and install the screws and nuts. The second half of the saddle clamp has recesses to hold the nuts from turning.
Tighten the screws with the #2 Phillips screwdriver. Gently hand-tighten the plastic compression nut.
Installing The Drinking Water Faucet - Locate the faucet enclosed with the kit and the respective line coming from the filter assembly. Ours is blue and labeled “TO FAUCET”. If your old filter system had a drinking water faucet, use that same hole. If not, position the faucet on top of the kitchen sink rim and mark the center of where you want to drill the ½” hole. Drill the hole. Working from under the sink, slide the faucet mounting hardware onto the feed line and push the line up through the faucet hole from the bottom. If there is any mounting hardware required between the bottom of the faucet and top of the sink rim, slide that on the line now. Install the line in the bottom of the faucet. Mount the faucet on the sink and from under the sink, tighten the faucet mounting hardware.
Installing The Storage Tank - Locate the tank shut-off valve. Wrap two wraps of Teflon tape around the threads of the valve and screw onto the top of the tank. Gently tighten the valve with the small crescent. Place the storage tank stand where you want the tank located. Set the tank onto the stand.
Locate the only line left coming from the filter assembly not connected to anything. Ours is white and labeled “TO TANK”. Slide the line in the valve and gently hand-tighten the plastic compression nut.
Starting The System - Turn on the main water supply valve, RO shut-off valve and storage tank valve. The RO shut-off and storage tank valves are on when each valve handle is parallel with the line attached to it. Check connections for leaks. Open the drinking water faucet and let drip/run for two hours. Turn off the faucet and let the tank fill for four to five hours.
After the tank is full, open the drinking water faucet and let the tank drain until it stops. Shut off the faucet and let the tank fill for two hours. The water is now ready to drink.
Maintenance - Replace the filters yearly or sooner if the taste of the water changes. A filter kit costs about $35.00 and contains the three filters. We purchased a filter kit when we bought the system, so that we have one on-hand.
Due to the system using water to periodically back-flush the RO membrane, we found our RO system works best when hooked up to city water and leaving the galley gray water holding tank drain valve open.
If you live in a cold climate and store your RV for the winter, service your RO system by turning off the cold-water feed valve, opening the drinking water faucet and running the storage tank dry. Then, turn off the storage tank valve. Next, re-open the cold-water feed valve and remove the three filters. If you drain your water lines with air, proceed as normal. If you prepare your water system with RV antifreeze, then put on the filter housings without the filters and proceed normally.
In the spring, prepare your water system for use as normal. Then, install new filters in their housings and turn on the storage tank valve. When you first use your RO system, open the drinking water faucet and let it drip/run for two hours. Turn off the faucet and let the tank fill for four to five hours and you are ready for the summer.
Summary – The installation is simple, quick and easy with professional-looking results. Now, with our RO system, we enjoy good-tasting pure drinking water regardless of the condition of the water at our location.
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